Did I say I wanted cheap? Yep! What I didn't mention was I
wanted it to be easy, easy, easy to construct. This being a
cube box (13" per side finished), it can't get much easier than
this. It only took ten minutes to cut the side panels and glue
them together. I like to use corner clamps in conjunction with
a couple of straps-the corner clamps let me get the tops and
bottoms of the joints right where I want them and then I place a
strap clamp in the middle. Let this dry for a couple of hours and
get ready to cut some holes for the active driver and passive
radiators. Oh yeah, the amp too! If you want to get all fancy and
do a nice round over on the driver and radiator cut outs, you
can do this before you assemble the panels. It really doesn't
make too much of a difference on this project as there is
enough window space in the baskets for free breathing.
The cutouts for the driver and the radiators are all 7-1/8" diameter.
Use a jigsaw, a router with a Jasper Circle Jig, or as I
use, the Sears Craftsman Circle Cutting Jig for their routers.
It works like a charm. Lay the now dry side panel assembly
on its side, and measure from the upper left hand corner of
the panel that is on top. Your center of the cutout is 5" down
and 6-1/2" over from this upper left hand corner. This will
position the driver in the center of the cube on a vertical axis
and slightly off center on a horizontal axis. Make the same
cuts on the two adjacent sides. The side opposite the active
driver is where the plate amp will be mounted. When this
cutout is done you can attach the top and bottom pieces,
and then clamp until the glue sets.
I did a 1/2" roundover on the edges of the box. Finish
the exterior as you see fit. I like PlastiKote's FleckStone
paint as it has some texture to it, and it's quite durable
and low maintenance-plus it hides touch-up and small
blemishes well.
You are now ready to install your components. Be sure to
wire up the active driver voice coils in parallel: positive to
positive, negative to negative. Set everything in place and
make sure you have a good seal with all the components. You
are now ready to enjoy The Triska Sub. Once the break-in is
finished, you should have a useable extension to 31 Hz.
