This was the fun part. I knew that since I was going to have two different thicknesses of boards on the front of each speaker, I needed to cut the holes using my newly ordered Jasper circle jig (#365-250) prior to the overall box construction. I spent about 4 hours taking measurements, drawing sketches, and taking remeasurements to make sure I got the fronts right the fi rst time. I fi rst routed all the wood board edges with a 1/8" roundover bit and then I glued the alternating wood pattern on the front piece of MDF. I made sure to cover the entire back of the wood boards to eliminate any vibrations (I used a total of 5 full tubes of liquid nails throughout the project). After the glue dried, I routed the recess depths for the drivers to be housed and then the actual holes. I cut the holes for the tweeters with a hole saw. After this step, I was able to assemble the actual box and continue gluing the alternating board pattern. The boards around the edges are 1/2" thick instead of the 1/4" boards that were used on the face, sides, and top. This allowed me to route a 45° bevel and provide a little depth that gives it an almost picture frame appearance. Then I continued gluing the boards to the sides and top. I sealed all the inside joints with caulk and placed bits of cut foam in it for dampening. The only thing left was to apply 5 coats of polyurethane, screw on the rubber feet, and install the crossover and drivers. To add a fi nishing touch, I used the ring portion of the steel mesh grill to cover the 10" woofer gasket.